My 6th tryst with Sabarimala has been a memorable one.
The Journey
Reached Alwaye early morning (15th) at 600 or so then went home. Kettunira and then started off at 10.15AM. Had been reading about the unprecedented rush this year especially from Dec 1st. Hence was mentally prepared for a tough ordeal. People had been waiting for 12-16 hours in que just to climb the 18-steps and then there was the controversy over the "Aravana" payasam which was on shortage & people waiting for that in que for 6 hrs. Anyways the power & pull of Ayyappa overcomes all as they say.This time my elder brother was also there, he climbing the hills after almost 20-22 years or so.We went in the trusted neighbourhood Amby which has been part of most social functions during the last 10 years or so. Since we have been visiting the other temples which come on the way on a regular basis whenever we are in Kerala, we decided to head straight to Erumeli(around 50km off Pampa). Reached there and the place was brimming with Ayyappas doing the peta thullal(mostly tamil/andhra devotees). Prayed at the temple there and had lunch at a nearby hotel. Now food is typically " season food" as they call it which means kanji-payar is the most popular,but settled for "nadan" "oonu" with pacha-ari as people like me find it more digestible. Keeping in mind the climb ahead, we kept the food to minimal.
The Climb
Then left off to Pampa. Reached there around.3.30 or so. HAd a coffee to charge the body up. Upto two days back there was a crisis at Pampa also with water almost dried up. Fortunately for us water had been released from the dam & we managed to have the dips there. What was noticable was that the typical round stones one finds in Pampa was missing as this years rains had been so much that it had washed it off and only sand was there in the water bed.After that we were off with "Swamiye- Ayyappo" visiting the Pampa Ganapathy temple and breaking the coconut as is customary. We started climbing at 400PM. Initial climb was smooth, for those of us who are familiar then the climb gets rather steep and is known to take ones breath away. Climb was slow and steady with me and bro into rhythmic sharan vili.Somewhere on the way my mind wavered and I started thinking that just the last steep climb and then we will start descending into the valley. Thats when it sort of hit me. A combination of gastric emission inside(popularly called "gas" by mallus) and it was probably the chena in the kalan which we had for lunch. I am at times allergic to chena.I stopped for a while , took a pause and resumed climbing. Bro was ok in the climb. After a few stops...I found myself short of breath, almost a feeling of helplessness & I felt I couldnt climb more. Took a break again, sat on the chair at the tea stall on the way...thinking about it....had a lemon soda..which sort of refreshed me..and then putting my mind back to Ayyappa I started again...slowly steadily...got thru the toughest part and reached sharmkutti-aal. The climb was over...again I was brought down to earth just when I was thinking that I had done it...The place is a great leveller...
Darshanam, Divya Darshanam
From Sharamkutthi, there was a controlled que..but luckily we reached the sannidanam by 5.45PM. Spending just .30 hour was a miracle in itself...then finally had darshanam at around 6.45 or so because we choose the line which is the closest to the sannidanam and hence after some spirited jostling with macho-andhra &tamil ayyappas...finally had the moment for which so many lakhs take the penance..the ayyappa darshanam..there he was smiling at you...caught it even if it was for a few seconds, but etched in memory for a lifetime.
At Sannidhanam
We had no accomodation there,and was resigned to spend it on a paya(mat) during the night..still we went to the accomodation centre and voila housefull board was there. Just as we were contemplating what next..a voice asked.."saarey room veno"...he was apparently from the accomodation office and said that a "cottage" on hilltop was available. Cottage is not like a cottage, its just a two room setup with no facilities, after all one is a swamy. we took it since it was a godsend.
we unbundled the kettunira and broke the coconuts with a stone and poured it into vessel for doing abhishekam and then assorted various items to be offered to the different dieties.
went back to sannidanam, again we were lucky to have our second darshanam ,arranged for abhishekam & prayed at mallipapurathamma & other deities and finally just casually went to the prasadam centre, to our surprise the "Aravana" counter was not having a huge que,So we got Aravana prasadam also! at times in life when you expect little,,,you get a lot...so it was like that for us too..
By that time, the bones in the legs was cracking up,used to comforts of city life...it was taking a toll..with great difficulty went back to the room (having "dosha" enroute)...finally settled for a nap at around 12.30. woke up at 3.30 , went to sannidanam again and had the abhishekam done and collected the vessel. By 6.00 or so we were free, having had a amazingly fast darshanam, little time in queues, neyyabhishekam also done. Looked around at the shops & then started the descent back, breaking the coconut again.with a silent prayer of thanks...and a hope that will be able to come again...
Descent back...
Descent thru the old route was tough for my bro especially as we were applying brakes with our legs and knees were feeling the heat...finally we reached pampa at 8.30 & left off for home, a safe journey back...and to the delight and relief of all loved ones, reached home at noon...and then the final coconut breaking and removal of mala...
Musings
FOr people like us who are used to comforts in life, its a tough one no doubt...to take the vrutham, do the climb, and the large number of pilgrims make the place not very clean...to ignore that...while climbing down...one sees the filth around...one walks on it....So what...Swamiye Sharanm Ayyappa...I will do it again and again...as long as I can..the effort will be there...people crib about facilities...about food...about cleanlines...common..one is supposed to be a sadhu when one goes there...one is above it isnt it...lakhs of pilgrims one a day cant be managed....its the people like us who can do better...the awareness is for the pilgrim to treat the place better...not the authorities
The climb to sannidhanam epitomises life and lifes chapters..for some its easy..for some its tough...for some like me who found it easy previously...finds it tough now...nothing is for granted in life...we put the effort and things will fall in line...isnt it..with a little bit of luck that is...
Swami Sharanam
Also see http://menonspeak.rediffiland.com/scripts/xanadu_diary_view.php?postId=1195287128
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